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An articulated process that requires a tannin-rich mud from subtropical river deltas and intense sunlight to obtain the liquid-looking dyed silk, it “takes approximately 20 days and is done entirely by hand and led by master dyers with more than 10 years of experience,” Echavarria explained.
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Mud or gummed silk is a textile tradition perpetuated in several areas, including along China’s Mekong River since the Ming dynasty. To think that century’s old traditions could be done by someone who has no connection,” she mused. “The main problem with cultural appropriation is to decontextualize the origin and source. Marcella Echavarria, founder of the Noir Handmade unisex clothing brand that she established to honor the Southeast Asian technique of mud silk production, is convinced that “the products should be made by the people who give the inspiration,” and companies are required to credit them. “We are aware that local craftsmanship is a very limited view of that, but by communicating about this matter in a sensitive way we try to create awareness.” “One reason we started Folkdays is because we wanted to shift the discourse about countries in the global south away from their ‘deficits’ and toward their uniqueness and strengths,” she added. “We call our creative process a ‘strength-based design approach’ and it is more a co-creation process than a traditional one.”
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We want to learn from them, but also help them understand our product development process and how to create products for a new target group,” Jaspers said. “At the core of our work lies the belief that some of the poorest regions harbor the most exceptional creative geniuses.
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It specializes in handmade, one-of-a-kind garments, as well as jewelry and design knickknacks realized in partnership with the 40 small and family-run artisanal businesses the company has aggregated in 20 countries.įor example, the Wayuu people, Colombia’s largest indigenous group, supplies the colorful mochila bags, which require two to four weeks to make, while Cambodia’s social business Color Silk, which employs 400 weavers in the remote Takeo province, is responsible for textiles crafted using the local ikat weaving technique.Ī Folkdays’ mochila bag crafted from the Wayuu people, Colombia’s largest indigenous group. We want to develop together.” The partnership is based on a fair-trade scheme with 10 percent of Panafrica’s profits going directly to the local businesses it works with.įair trade is also key to Folkdays, a Berlin-based emporium and fashion brand established in 2013 by former Oxfam alum Lisa Jaspers. Lucas calls each supplier a partner because “they really work with us and are involved in our growth as much as we’re involved in their growth. The company produces sneakers with bold patterns crafted from wax print fabrics sourced from Ivory Coast’s Uniwax woven canvas from Burkina Faso’s Centre of Textile Excellence Afrika Tiss batik from Ghana, and raffia handwoven by a family workshop in Morocco.Ī lookbook image from Panafrica. That’s why we decided to create a whole ecosystem around us in Africa,” she said. “While we really wanted to create a bold and comfortable style, we wanted it to also have a positive impact on people and the planet. “Fashion has always been not just about wearing something on your body, but it allows really to express yourself individually and as a community, a country or a culture and so it’s a good way to address inclusivity and show the world what your culture and country are about,” echoed Hélène Lucas, a cofounder of French-based Made in Africa footwear label Panafrica, established with business partners Hugues Didier and Vulfran de Richoufftz. It translated into a selection of high-end Peruvian fabrics including Pima cotton and alpaca handcrafted with traditional techniques by local artisans, especially women, “often without any other source of income other than producing for us,” Cachay explained. What to Watch: Men’s Spring Fashion Has Upbeat VibeĪyni was established after a fortuitous encounter between the two people who shared the same desire to combine “ethics and aesthetics” in their fashion business.